Here are our top tips for buying a Tdi-engined Land Rover Defender.

On the 200Tdi, fuel rail return pipes disintegrate; symptoms include the smell of diesel and visible leaks. They can be quite easily replaced.

With the 300Tdi, timing-belt edges shred on early engines. This can be rectified by using different belt pulleys. The belt can be checked through the wading-plug hole, using a small bulb. Check the service record; if a belt change isn’t recorded, it needs doing immediately.

Radiators rot, the fins just fall away from the tubes and you get overheating. To check, shine a torch through the grille.

Bores and piston rings don’t wear much, so if it’s not performing well, that’s usually a fuelling problem. The mainshaft of the fuel lift pump (on the side of the engine) can wear.

A failing fuel lift pump can cause a lack of top-end power. To be certain, crack the bleed screw on top of the filter – if no fuel comes out the lift pump isn’t working. Watch out for the ‘P’ gasket behind the water pump, it can let go suddenly. If there’s weeping, fixing it is a must.

Always try to view the vehicle when the engine is cold.

The 200Tdi had the LT77 five-speed gearbox and LT230 transfer box. The 300Tdi has the R380 gearbox, with the LT230 transfer box. LT77s can slip out of gear. And a worn clutch can make the gearchange obstructive.

As originally built, the LT77 mainshaft chafes its splines where it mates to the transfer-box due to oil starvation. One symptom is a clunk when taking up drive. The solution is to fit a cross-drilled gear, which simply improves oil flow.

The clutch fork is weak, metal wears away and the middle pushes through. The clutch pedal goes to the floor but won’t come back. Check service records for clutch fork. Be sure to check a 300Tdi’s 3rd-to-2nd down-change, a typical R380 weak point.

Early Tdi engines leak oil from drive flanges – messy, but not necessarily a problem.

Everything is fixable. But multiple worn components will end up costing a lot. So avoid tow-vehicles.

Expect wear in the suspension bushes. A clonk as you take up drive can be caused by a worn rear A-frame ball-joint. A clonk when braking could mean front radius arm bush issues. Panhard rod bushes wear, too. Individual Polybushes aren’t expensive, a full vehicle kit costs £164 from Craddock’s.

Heavily rusted springs will be weakened. Some vehicles have taller springs - try tight corners on the test drive, you may not like them.

Steel wheels were standard on utility models, but many Defenders have alloys. Posh wheels/tyres attract thieves and locking wheelnuts are useless, so unless you have lockable parking, steel wheels are best.

Braking should be impressive. Often badly maintained, but parts are easy to find and not costly.

All Tdi Defenders have front discs, but 200Tdi models have rear drums, which changed to discs shortly before the 300Tdi’s introduction. Corroded brakepipes are typical, and flexy pipes are often tired.

Callipers are often in poor shape too, with the pistons partly seized.

Simple to understand. Power steering is sometimes leaky, but not very expensive. No big costs unless front swivels are badly deteriorated.

You’ll often find a lot of play in the drop-arm ball-joint. Wiggle the steering wheel and look for a lot of play before anything happens.

Attention to the axle can transform leaden and imprecise steering.

Make sure the vehicle steers straight ahead on a smooth, flat road when the wheel is held only lightly.

Electrics are very basic and wonderfully straightforward.

The stop-start solenoid can stick, requiring you to stall the engine to stop it. 300Tdi headlight switches seem prone to burning out – check everything works.

Watch out for the two-button remote keys that came with 300Tdis from about N-reg. There’s an immobiliser in the battery compartment, which often gives trouble. Always make sure both keys work.

Everything can be fixed – but vehicles requiring a lot of work need to be very cheap. It only makes sense to replace the chassis and bulkhead if the vehicle is cheap and the rest is in good nick. Otherwise, find another vehicle.

Bulkhead top corners rust through and repair sections are sometimes fitted applique-style – a horrible bodge.

Check the driver’s door frame, near where the push-button lock is located. You’ll see if it’s cracked. Look under doors for rot. Rear-door steel frames may crack where the wiper goes through, if there’s been a rear-mounted spare wheel.

You’ll be lucky to find a tidy interior, but replacements are available and it’s all DIY.

Alpine light seals harden and split, allowing leaks. Early sunroofs leak. There aren’t any drain tubes, so water just sits there. They are known to leak at the place where two panels are spotwelded together, where the roof starts to slope down. They leak from the sides into the internal gutter too and condensation is a frustration.

Check the inertia-reel seatbelts work properly and check that the doors latch and lock properly.

If there’s a mat in the rear, lift it up – floors can rot where the aluminium floor meets the steel supports underneath.

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